Spring/Summer 2015

Morris dress

Venetian wool, satinised organza, die cut sequins

Holly Fulton, London, UK

Holly Fulton’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection is an ode to sun worship, folk art and free expression. The Morris dress formed the centrepiece of her Spring/Summer 2015 show at London Fashion Week.

Collating quintessential elements of British folk life, such as Morris dancers and maypole ribbons, with her signature graphic aesthetic, Fulton was excited by the naiveté of the collection.

Her inspirations ranged from symbolic depictions of the sun in Walter Herdeg’s book Die Sonne in der Kunst to the Scottish artist J D Fergusson’s cubist-derived sculpture of the Sun Goddess Eastra, inspired by dancer Margaret Morris. Fulton captured Morris’ stance and sway with dresses cut to midi length. The tessellating triangles form interlocking patterns inspired by folk art such as barge painting, and the verdant green, poppy red, navy and black recall the lacquered surface of glossy wooden barges.

Fulton’s collections are renowned for luxurious materials, innovative techniques and high levels of craftsmanship. Spring/Summer 2015 expanded upon the innovative use of high gloss film in detailed layers and new ways of bonding material to form rich appliquéd surfaces, whilst also remaining rooted in traditional hand crafts.

For this dress, the die cut sequins were folded to size in order to tessellate and interlock them. The pattern forms a totemic central section on the front bodice, repeating in units across the entire skirt. The technique is incredibly labour intensive and the Morris dress took several days to sequin.

Fulton’s collaboration with Woolmark is referenced in her use of Japanese lightweight Nikke cool wool, Holland and Sherry fine worsteds and merino knitwear; the bodice of the Morris dress is made from Venetian wool.