Jacques Fath is one of the designers credited with contributing to the rebirth of couture following the Second World War. As Christian Dior’s New Look of 1947 changed the course of fashion, heralding a voluptuous femininity created by sloping shoulders, waspish waists and voluminous skirts, Fath matched the prevailing mood with artfully-draped garments that were masterpieces in the display of movement.

Repositioning French haute couture at the centre of the international fashion industry, the return to pre-war extravagance symbolised hope for a war weary population. However, in Britain austerity regulations were not lifted until 1952 and designers had to adhere to restrictions on fabric quantities and skirt lengths, putting the luxurious designs of the Parisian couturiers firmly in the fashion spotlight.

Fans of Fath’s work included Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo and Rita Hayworth, for whom he made both wedding dress and trousseau for her marriage to Prince Aly Khan. Fath invested in a glamorous lifestyle and his self-promotion and publicity campaigns were so successful that his haute couture sales were second only to Dior’s at the time of his death in 1954.

This exquisite ballgown was likely embroidered by René Bégué (Rébé), one of a dozen great Parisian embroidery ateliers of the period alongside Lesage and Vermont. It was Rébé who Dior chose to embroider his 1947 New Look collection, which was instrumental in reviving the French luxury industries.

Once an haute couture design has been conceived, the next step is to select the textile, followed by the choice of buttons, trimmings and embroidery. Embroidery houses designed their collections in response to the current season and sent samples to the couture houses. Once sold, a design was exclusive to that salon.

Exclusivity is paramount in the world of haute couture. The embroidery houses would produce as many different samples as they could in order to appeal to the tastes of as many couturiers as possible and ensure sales. Designs would be sampled on a variety of fabrics of different textures and weights such as gauze, satin, organza and tulle, to enable them to propose their creations.

This type of embroidery work was – and still is – considered the perfect balance between art and craft. With each glass bead and paillette or sequin applied individually, such embellishment required meticulous patience.